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In classic white, with traditional soufflé-dish ribbed exterior, these shallow, 5-inch-diameter dishes serve as cooking and serving vessels for quiche and the silken custard known as crème brûlée. Because porcelain is safe in the oven, refrigerator, or even the freezer, the custard can be baked in the dishes and chilled, and then their sugar crusts can be melted under a broiler or with a kitchen blowtorch. Despite the name, these are not just dual-use dishes. Elegant little lemon tarts can be prepared in them, also. At table, they are perfect for jam, butter, sauces like aioli, and other condiments. Stoveside, they hold salt or pepper, herbs or spices. Porcelain's kitchen popularity derives from its durability, beauty, versatility, and cleanability. --Fred Brack SET OF SIX